Trailer - hull support question(s)

Trailer - hull support question(s)

Postby JoshE » Mon May 13, 2013 2:46 pm

I have a question regarding S20 trailers and trailer design. I have recently acquired an S20 trailer that, instead of the four separate "pads" that contact the hull, it has a pair of parallel "rails" made of what appears to have once been steam-bent 2x6. The wood was completely dry-rotted and falling off the frame, so I can't really get an accurate measure of the curvature, nor do I really have a way to steam-bend the wood were I to have such measurements.

I guess this is two questions:

1) Can I simply skip the "rails" altogether and just make some maybe 16" square pads and attach them to the same points that the rails attached to?

2) If no on #1, any thoughts on options for re-creating the rails? I had though I might be able to use a router and create some slots instead of individual holes that carriage bolts could pass through on the rails, allowing the bolts to be left slightly loose, and then when the boat is lowered onto the trailer, theoretically it would bend the wood, allowing the bolts to slide through the tracks, letting the wood form to the hull. The nuts could then be tightened from the outside face and when the boat was removed, should be sufficient to retain the curvature of the hull.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide. I'm hoping option #1 is valid, as that's the easiest and least time-consuming. I'm just worried about taking my boat up on the crane and lowering it onto something I'm not sure of, so any advice is greatly appreciated.
JoshE
 
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Re: Trailer - hull support question(s)

Postby Reaction126 » Tue May 14, 2013 9:34 am

Hi Josh,
If you want to go the pad route, I used these which are holding up well. http://www.atlasboatpad.com/

If you want to replace the bunks..

1. Buy new boards longer than the originals
2. Cover the boards
3. Pre-soak the boards (helps them bend)
4. Bolt down to the front post leaving the rear loose
5. Lower the boat slowly onto the bunks shaping them to the hull
6. When in position, mark the bolt holes and clamp the boards in place
7. Lift the boat
8. Bolt the rear post and trim the boards to length
Mark Werder
126 Reaction
Folsom, CA
Reaction126
 
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Re: Trailer - hull support question(s)

Postby JoshE » Tue May 14, 2013 1:07 pm

Good call, I was overengineering with the sliding slots, etc. I think I'll try your method. :)
JoshE
 
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Re: Trailer - hull support question(s)

Postby Geoffpz1 » Thu May 16, 2013 7:31 pm

I have done this numerous times over the last 15 or so yrs. Just get a normal untreated 2x12 or 2x6 (depends on what you have on there now) and bolt it down. No steaming/bending etc nec. The wood will rot before you have to replace them again and boat will form to the gap. Cover with astroturf, easy peasy don't over=think it like I did the first time. Frankly, I would go the pad route which I will do next time. Less of a pita to clean under, but other than that 6 of 1 1/2 dozen of the other mine tend to last about 4-5 yrs.
Geoffpz1
 
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Re: Trailer - hull support question(s)

Postby JoshE » Mon May 20, 2013 9:36 am

Went the pad route. Doubled-up 3/4 treated plywood, covered with in/outdoor carpeting. Bolted right up to the pad supports, and the boat dropped right on them perfectly with no issues. Thanks for all the suggestions, folks! She's in her new home now at MBYC.
JoshE
 
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